How to choose the right plant

All the plant-lovers know the name 'houseplant' includes hundreds of species. Dozens of kinds are available all year round at garden centers, supemarkets and florist's. Pretty much everyone likes houseplants yet millions of specimens die each year. Every species has their special needs. If we bear these in mind they ornament our home for a long time in gratitude. In the following I help you to choose the ideal plant considering how successfully can they be kept in semi-hydro system.

1. Do you want the plant to be on dipslay all year round?
Flowering annual plants live for a few months only, once their flowering period is over they defoliate and die. They are often grown from seed. Are not the best choice for hydro (Petunias, Begonias, Primrose etc).

Perennials make better display:
Foliage plants originate from tropical or subtropical regions where they keep their leaves all year round. They live permanently under room conditions yet rarely flower and/or blooms are insignificant. Their value may be in the variegation or shape of foliage (Palms, Ficuses, Dracaenas etc).
Flowering houseplants are similar to foliage plants but once their attractive blooms are spent the plant looses its display value and often needs special care to rebloom (Orchids, African violets, Bromeliads, Poinsettia etc).
Flowering pot plants provide only temporary floral display and they often loose their foliage afterwards. They can be stored leafless indoors or outdoors or as a bulb. Their houseplant 'value' to us is similar to annuals cause don't make good subjects for hydro (Azaleas, Cyclamen, Tulips etc)
Cacti are leafless and many of them have spines. Their charm is in their unusual shapes and forms yet many of them can be made to flower regularly. Even considerably plain cacti can produce splendid blooms which makes them valuable and cherished by growers.

2. How much do you want to spend on the new plant?
Common species are usually available at an affordable price, yet it may vary due to their size, growth rate and difficulty. Geographical location also affects the supplies and costs.
Slow growers like palms are considerably pricey. Large specimens are more costly due to the time and space the nursery has to invest in them  (Ficuses, Dracaenas) Smaller specimens of these kinds are cheaper (and more fun to watch them grow!) also they take better to transplanting in hydro. The most popular are the small or middle sized plants (in 8-15 cm pots). Fast growers should be bought in small size if you don't want to run out of space in a few month's time (Scindapsus, umbrella plant, peace lily etc)

3. Do you want common or rare plant?
Though shops offer a wide variety of plants, the most popular are still the old favourites; Chlorophytum, Aloe vera, Crassulas, Cacti, Peace lily, Ficuses, Ferns, African violets, Begonias, Palms, Lucky bamboo and Pothos.  This doesn't mean these are the easiest and nowadays everyone wants to have unique plants of unusual shapes and colours. Some rare plants can easily be ordered from the internet and are not considered to be difficult to keep.

4. How much time and effort do you want to spend on your plants and do you have experience with the species?
Some plants are said to be indestructible but we all know this is not true. Though there are some that flourish on lack of attention like Sansevierias and Cacti, most of them need regular care and competence. Plants grown in semi-hydro have less chance to become sick but water levels need to be monitored regularly. Flowering species may need special care to burst into bloom.

5. What shape and size do you want?
Both size and shape are very important. A small specimen would look very odd in a spacious room and a fast growing ficus can take up lot of useful space in a few months' time in a tight hall. There are 6 basic shapes and almost all the houseplants fit in one of these groups.
Grassy plants have long narrow leaves and grass-like growth habit but very few houseplants are actual grasses. The broad-leafed species like Chlorophytum and Tillandsia are very popular.
Bushy plants have several stems, can be small and compact like Peperomia or shrubby like Aucuba. Some needs be regularly pinched to maintain the shape (Maranta, Pilea).
Uprights plants are often used as solitairs serving as a focal point in the room. Column plants have a thick vertical stem, many cacti and succulents have this growth habit. Trees are mostly the same form - a central branched or unbranched stem bearing leaves on top (Citrus, Ficus elastica). False palms have stems which are completely coated with leaves in young age but on a mature plant only the upper part of the stem bears foliage. They are often used as specimen plants in public buildings (Beaucarnea, Dieffenbachia, Dracaena, Yucca).
Climbing and trailing plants are very popular and very useful in interior designs. They can be trained on canes, trellises, wires or poles. Climbers are grown as upright plants clinging to moss stick with aerial roots (Pothos, Philodendrons) or to hoops with tendrils (Stephanotis, Passiflora). Climbers/Trailers can be attached to poles or let them spread out as a ground cover (Pothos, Hedera). Trailers have stems hanging down covering the pot. They have attracting leaves of flowers and are often potted in hanging baskets (String of pearls/hearts/lemons/bananas/buttons, Columnea, Fittonia, Holiday cacti).
Rosette plants have leaves that form a circular cluster around a central point. Most are low-growing. Flat-rosette plants have large leaves, a number of flowering pot plants have this growth habit (Violets, Primula). Succulent rosette plants have fleshy leaves in several layers (Echeveria, Sempervivum). Funnel rosette plants are also very popular and their upright strap-like leaves form a vase which holds water (Aechmea, Vriesea, Guzmania, Bromeliads).
Ball plants are all cacti, and bear no leaves only spines or hairs (Mammilaria, Parodia, Astrophytum).

6. What growing conditions can you provide?
Every plant has their likes and dislikes, and even if you provide a welcoming environment they can get a little sick after the rehoming. A healthy plant adapts quickly with little or no fuss. Types of conditions can be the following:
Shade
Semi-shade
Bright shade
Indirect or little direct light
Full sun
Central heating in winter
No heating in winter
 

Fighting pests

As I mentioned in an earlier post I changed to hydro because I couldn't get rid of the fungus gnats.These little fellas are of the harmless ones as they are rather aggravating than damaging to the plant. They were gone by throwing the soil away and holding back the watering on the rest of the plants.
Yet I had to fight with thrips wich are rather stubborn and I lost a few plants for those. In fact it was my fault as I didn't treat them properly and then it was too late.
A light spider mite infestation I had on a few plants but I could keep them at bay by spraying with neem oil occassionally.
Pests can appear in a few days time and they take over your plants if you don't act. Very important to identify and control them quickly to avoid further damage to your plants. Use a magnifying glass and only after identifying the pest apply pesticides (always follow instructions on the packaging!).

To prevent an infestation:

• Inspect any new plant for signs of bugs, webbing, damaged and spotted leaves before putting it among the old ones. Quarantine them if you're not sure.
• Check your plants at every watering for pests. You can use eco-friendly pest killers such as neem oil on a regular basis to keep the bugs away.
• Keep your collection healthy, clean and well-fed. A regular shower helps physically removing insects. Avoid cramming pots where possible. You can't examine foliage and pests can spread easily from one plant to another. Damaged surfaces are attracting juice-sucking bugs (also prone to fungal infections) so always make clean cuts and remove dead leaves.

The most common pests are:
Aphids
Spider mites
Mealybugs
Scale
Thrips
Fungus gnats
Whitefly

Aphids
They are mostly outdoor pests but an open window is enough for them to find way to your house. A common on many plants these sap-sucking insects are often noticed feeding in clusters on new plant growth.
 Aphids are small (1/8 inch long), soft bodied, pear-shaped insects that may be green, yellow, brown, red or black in color depending on species and food source. As they feed, aphids secrete large amounts of a sticky fluid known as honeydew. This sweet goo drips onto plants, attracting ants (if outdoors) and promoting a black sooty mold growth on leaves. Heavy infestations will cause leaves to curl, wilt or yellow and stunted plant growth. Several species can transmit plant diseases, particularly viruses which they pass on during feeding.
 Most aphids, except for the sexual forms, do not have to mate in order to reproduce, and they produce live young, rather than eggs. This way they can multiply their numbers in a few days' time.
 They can be removed physically in large numbers with a stream of water or by pinching off the affected part of the plant. Insecticidal soap and neem oil works well on them. Their natural predators are ladybugs and lacewings so you can try to release them on your plant (only if outside).

Spider mites

Often found on the underside of leaves these tiny sucking pests can destroy your indoor or outdoor  garden. Common in North-America, and occassional in European greenhouses and plant shipments. Spider mites are not true insects, but are classed as a type of arachnid, relatives of spiders, ticks, and scorpions. Adults are reddish brown or pale in color, oval-shaped, and very small. 

 Mites live in colonies, mostly on the underside of leaves, and feed by piercing leaf tissue and sucking up the plant fluids. Feeding marks show up as light dots on the leaves. As feeding continues, the leaves turn yellow, and may dry up and drop off.

 Spider mites are most common in hot, dry conditions. Large populations are often accompanied by fine webbing. Host plants are many and include strawberries, melons, beans, tomatoes, eggplant, ornamental flowers, trees and most houseplants.

When infestation is noticed, remove the affected parts well past the webbing. A strong stream of water can reduce numbers on heavily infested plants. Apply pesticides such as neem oil, insecticidal soap or horticultural oil. Check the plants regularly and re-apply pesticides if necessary. Dust on leaves can encourage mites. A regular shower may stop them from coming back. 

Mealybugs

They occur in most parts of the world, naturally in the warmer parts. They are considered pests as they feed on plant juices on both houseplants and greenhouses or outdoor plants.

Mealybug females feed on plant sap, normally in roots or other crevices, and in a few cases the bottoms of stored fruit. They attach themselves to the plant and secrete a powdery wax layer (hence the name mealybug) used for protection while they suck the plant juices.

PlantID - Ficuses

First year in hydro

It's been a year since I repotted the first bunch of my houseplants and almost all of them are sitting in the clay pellets by now. I learned a lot, and I'm very proud of my achievements.
Some of the plants have grown a lot and I'm looking forward a whacking job. Maybe a month to go until then.
First the ficuses, the small cuttings developed nice thick trunks and healthy roots.

Things Beginners worry about but they shouldn't

When you are new to growing plants (in any way, not only in Hydro) you tend to worry about things that are really not important or unavoidable. There is nothing like a perfect specimen in nature. Go out and find a tree. It has all kinds of imperfectness on it, yet it is completely healthy. Plant time is not the same as human time. Think in seasons and years, most of the plants show results only in the next year's growth period.

Foliage

When you google a plant's name, all the pics show perfect leaves. No brown tips, or misshapen ones.

Every grower has experienced the panic when they see something unusual happening to their precious'. As dry air is very common especially in the heating season, a few brown tips are unavoidable. A Calathea won't ever look the same in your living room as it would look in the jungle. Accept this. You can raise humidity in your home but that is probably an endless fight.

Misshapen leaves occur naturally. Remove them, but when there is more than just a few, there must be an underlying problem of illness or lack of nutrients.

A few fallen leaves don't mean your plant is sick, especially when it has a hundred other. It happens when you bring them inside at the end of Summer, when temperature drops within a few days or you just repotted them. Give them time to adjust. 

Light

Choose a spot for your plant and leave it there. Most of them don't appreciate changes in amount and direction of sunlight. Keep them out of scorching sun and away from dark corners and they will do fine. Many plants get sunburnt if put outside in summer without enough time the adjust. First keep them in bright shade and week by week introduce them to full sun. Many of them will be grateful and gift you with nicely coloured leaves and vigorous growth.

Don't use ordinary bulbs as additional light, it's just a waste of energy. Common houseplants do well in lower light conditions during Winter months.When Summer comes, snip the etiolated parts off, and fix the look.

Grow, please!
There can be numerous reasons why your plant is not growing beyond you do something wrong. Maybe it is only a slow grower. Many houseplants put out only a few leaves per year, researching your precious' habits helps you understanding it better.
Check the roots. The pot may be overcrowded. It is very easy to repot when growing in Hydro, so trim the roots and if necessary you can go for a bigger pot.
Feed them well. Some research is necessary, even when growing in Hydro, some plants don't need as much mutrients as others. Adjust the amount of fertilizer given to help them reach their potential.
Sometimes, to see nice growth, you need to cut first. A smart trimming here and there encourages branching.

Water
It is the most common thing plant owners worry about. People tend to think when a plant is sad-looking, it needs more water - which is completely wrong (this we know since we grow in semi-hydro). If you are aware of the needs of the plant, and understand the signs of stress, you simply can't go wrong.

Feeding
Feed your houseplant regularly, but only with an appropriate fertilizer and always follow the instructions. If you fertilize too much, roots can burn and your plant would look just as sick as it was in need of nutrients.

Plants I killed

As growing houseplants in semi-hydro is an experiment and there are tons of things I don't know or understand yet, I managed to kill quite a few plants. But I've learnt from my mistakes every time.

One plant that died on me was a Calathea albertii. It was a salvaged plant from clearence shelf. After repotting it bounced back nicely but then started losing old leaves. However, new shoots sprouted. The plant lived for a good 3 months but kept dying back. I couldn't seem to find the reason why. Then noticed tiny white and black powdery things on the back of the leaves that didn't respond to any treatment I tried so had to get rid of the poor thing before the didease spread to other plants..
Calatheas can be finicky. I am having problems with a zebrina and a roseoptica at the moment (maybe dry air due to heating, will try to bag them for the rest of the season).

Another loss is a Haworthia pentagona that collapsed a few days after I transplanted it. Maybe got too wet while I removed the soil from the roots. It never seemed to mind the showers though.

I learned that ferns don't especially like direct sun and semi-hydro. I am lucky with my Asplenium nidus as it is doing fine but not as lucky with Polystichum tsus-simense aka Korean rock fern. It simply dried out beyond saving in a few days time on the windowsill. I was too careless I believe.

The mango I grew from seed got a bad thrips infestation. The avocado seeds didn't even sprout, maybe it's best to root them in water

I don't know anyone who hasn't killed a plant yet - by accident, by carelessness, by incompetency or other reasons. So don't be sad if you fail once or twice, next time you will be more careful.

Falling in love again...

.. with succulents.
They amazed me as a child, though I killed them all. I was way too impatient about growth and too eager for watering. So they either rot or roasted in full sun all day.
Succulents are wonderful plants with all their striking shapes and forms and colors. They can be found all around the planet, even in surprising places like rain forests and cold climates. They can store water in their fleshy leaves or thick stems. Some of them don't even look succulent-ish. Did you know the ZZ plant, the Sansevieria or a Ponytail plant are actually succulents? Many of them are easy to grow as houseplants, even indoors. They are happy to bathe in the sun during summer months and surprise you with beautiful flowers or leaf colors. They don't mind the heating and dry air in your home, won't be sad if you forget to water them or go away for a longer vacation.
Basically the only thing that kills them for sure is too much water and cold. Therefore succulents are perfect for Hydro! How can this be? They don't like their roots soaking in water but moist air around them is good indeed. In a semi-hydro system you can control the water levels better than with traditional potting media.
Most of them don't need fertilizing or just a little, so a very diluted solution will do.
The little group of these fleshy plants I have are in soil at the moment because I need to locate a source for clay balls. As soon as I can put my hands on a bag of hydroton I'll repot them. Have to admit, I find it extremely hard to water them in their tiny pots and the soil looks very dry and hard almost all the time :(
I won't be able to provide artificial light for them but they got the best possible spot on the Western window sill. They are tiny, but the more they grow, the prouder the grower is, eh? :)
I try do give a short description of the species I grow along with some advice about the care they need in the PlantID section. If you feel like reading more about succulents, here is a link for Wikipedia. 

Cotyledon tomentosa - Bear's paw